MOROCCO
Fasting in Fez
The cannon will fire not once, but three times tonight in Fez as the tiny sliver of moon is sighted to herald the start of Ramadan on Wednesday. As the boom echoes from the ancient labyrinthine city across to the 'nouvelle ville', the students in my class will erupt with excitement and I know I won't be able to teach them much more. So what should I say, I asked, to my Muslim friends about to start their month of fasting? "Ramadan m'barak"; "A blessed Ramadan"... these are the words on everyone's lips tonight.
It's been an interesting week of watching how the city and the people of Fez prepare for what will be a daunting but achievable task. At least the temperatures have dropped from the late 30s to a very cool morning and evening, and carrying a bottle of mineral water is not quite so essential.
Throughout the medina, café tables are piled so high with deep-fried sweet pretzels, samoosas and sausage-shaped rolls filled with almond-dotted sesame paste dripping with honey, that I wonder if everything will sell. I'm assured it will; there are large plastic buckets hanging above the displays which you can buy to take home your purchases. And when you've spent a day wishing you could eat something, a sugar rush from these sweetmeats is probably not what your body needs, but certainly what it craves.
I've been watching the b'stilla pastry cooks. Fez may be the spiritual capital of Morocco, but it's also the home of b'stilla, an extremely thin pastry that makes strudel or phyllo pastry look positively leaden. There's a large plastic bowl of mixture, and men are making the pastry. They take a fistful and roll it onto a griddle with the heel of the hand, as thin as can be. It takes but seconds to cook, and is then whipped off, added to the pile of sheets, and oiled with a pastry brush.
Housewives cram around the pastry cooks and haggle for sheets of the wafer-thin delicacy. They fashion sweetmeats from it, or make the famous b'stilla pies that contain pigeon meat and almonds and are dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. It's the taste of Fez — sweet yet savoury — and definitely worth trying. B'stilla is always available; it's just that at this time of year it's doubly valued.
Alcohol is forbidden during Ramadan; bottle stores close a few days beforehand, and stay closed for a few days after Eid. If you're a foreigner and really desperate, you can show your passport to a retailer, or go to an upmarket hotel to drink at the bar. Of course, alcohol is forbidden anyway for Muslims, but somehow Morocco has a thriving wine industry and it’s common for people to drink alcohol — except during Ramadan.
Breaking the fast
The fast is broken each evening in homes and cafés across the country as soon as the sun sets. I join friends in a café and we listen to prayers set to music coming from the TV. Then the sound is turned down while we hear the call to prayer emanating from the mosque opposite.
The minutes tick by agonisingly. When the call is complete, the proprietor calls 'b'smillah' and turns up the TV anew, and everyone tucks in. The iftar, or f'touh food differs little from place to place. There's always harira soup, a delicious concoction of vegetable or lamb stock with tomato paste, chick peas, small pasta, lentils, rice, red pepper, fresh coriander and perhaps some lamb or chicken. It's served with dates and some honey-drenched pastries, delicious pancake-type breads, some stuffed with egg and onion, bread, fruit or vegetable juice, hardboiled eggs with salt and cumin and afterwards, mint tea. All for around R10 each.
So here are all the trappings, the sweet things, the harira and the b'stilla pastry, but what's it all about?
Showing commitment to Allah
The four weeks of Ramadan are observed by fasting during daylight hours and eschewing sexual intercourse and smoking. Exempt are pregnant or breastfeeding women, small children, those travelling and the sick and elderly.
The aim is to remind Muslims of their commitment to God and as a spiritual purification. I don't hear any moans, and people seem pleased to take part and of course have great support from the entire community. It’s also the time to wear traditional clothes; the djellabas are beautifully embroidered and the pointy-toed babouches new and shiny.
My students assure me that I'll be woken each morning by the sounding of the cannon. Interestingly enough, I've learned to sleep through the 4am call to prayer, and no doubt this cannon will eventually become routine. But my students wake at around 4am and have breakfast — a big breakfast of fruit, milk, eggs, bread, yoghurt, pancakes, cornbread... then they go back to sleep. This means that 9am classes are now scheduled for 9.30am. Non-Muslims don't have to fast, of course, but we wouldn't think of eating or drinking in front of our Muslim colleagues or students and many of my colleagues do fast.
Later in the evening, between 10pm and midnight, supper is served. Here's the meal that the women have spent their day preparing — in between watching Egyptian soaps I'm told, as there's nothing much else to do — from b'stilla to couscous to tagines resplendent with the wide range of fresh vegetables available in the markets.
©www.iafrica.com
Let's Trance: excellent article by the writer and historian William Dalrymple that appeared in the travel section of The Guardian of 12 November 05 can be found at the address below. It covers Sufism in Fez and the Fez Festival.
http://travel.guardian.co.uk/countries/story/0,7451,1640581,00.html
MOROCCO
Funky Fez medina
Helen Ranger
Wed, 26 Oct 2005
Say the word 'Morocco', and people think of Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, or perhaps the tourist-filled red Berber city of Marrakech; an excitement of souks, henna, snake charmers and belly dancers. Maybe they’ve also heard of Tangiers, with its slightly raffish air of the 60s Beat generation, plentiful hashish and lithe brown Moroccan boys. And yet, there sits Fez in its bowl of mountains, facing west, baking in the hot sun, quite different to any other Moroccan city. It’s ancient; its history dates back to the 700s when it was founded by Moulay Idriss, who lies buried in a shrine deep in the medina (old city).
It’s also Arab; no amount of French colonisation has changed that, despite the modern city lying a few kilometres up the road.
It’s also profoundly spiritual; the cultural heart of the country, with hundreds of mosques dotted about the medina so you’re never out of reach of the muezzin.
Most tourists spend just one day in Fez, perhaps staying in an expensive hotel well out of the medina. But such a short stay won't do Fez justice, so stay a little longer and absorb the atmosphere on offer.
The medina in Fez is daunting, no doubt about it. The first time I came here, I decided to take the advice in the guidebook: 'know that you’ll get lost'. It’s not a problem, because you can always find a gate to the outside world where there’ll be a taxi, or a café for mint tea while you try to figure out where you are.
My guidebook says there are 9000 tiny streets in an area of approximately 4.5km². It’s a maze, a labyrinth. The cobbled streets certainly are tiny, and there is no vehicular access. How many cities do you know that you can’t drive into? Some streets are so narrow that you can’t comfortably pass a donkey laden with goods, or a mule carrying gas tanks or Coca Cola crates.
A medieval medina
Another enigma of Fez is that it remains a medieval city. In these tiny streets, you’ll still see men at work; beating patterns into brass trays, painting pottery, shaping copper basins, carving thuya or cedarwood or perhaps fashioning musical instruments such as the indigenous oud or lute. In their breaks, they sit in street cafés and make a glass of coffee last hours, and when the muezzin calls, they disappear into the mosques to pray.
There are specific areas for different kinds of goods; the tanneries and surrounding areas for buying leather clothing, bags, pouffes, belts and shoes; the coppersmith areas for trays, teapots, plates and basins; tailoring where you can have a djellaba made (the traditional hooded robe); babouches — slippers with pointed toes that come in yellow or white leather for men, and a multitude of designs, colours and fabrics for women; ornate yellow gold wedding jewellery, and carpentry, including gorgeous golden thrones for weddings, carved tables and artefacts.
There are excellent craft stalls selling lighting made of metalwork or thin, brightly dyed goatskin stretched over frames and painted, the ceramics (particularly blue and white) which Fez is famous for, carpets both old and new, antique shops featuring jewellery, objets d'art, furniture and fabrics.
Look out too for hendiras, the traditional cloaks of linen and wool (and sometimes silver sequins) that Berber mothers still weave for their marriageable daughters, as well as cushion covers and traditional wedding belts.
Find yourself a fez
Near the Moulay Idriss Shrine, you'll find stalls selling votive offerings such as candles, incense sticks and pieces of frankincense with charcoal to burn it. There are also shops selling gold-embroidered clothes for weddings and circumcisions, and it's here you'll find a real red fez complete with tassel. It makes a good souvenir, and cheap at around R14 each.
Once you’re done with the shopping, take in the monuments. You can hire a guide if you don’t have a lot of time. Don't miss the restored Bouanania Medersa (Qur’anic School) with the entrance on the main street, Tala'a Kebira; the Attarine Medersa further down, the Moulay Idriss Zawiya (shrine) deep down in the medina alongside the Karaouiyne Mosque, the tanneries, Seffarine Square and the Nejjarine Museum. There are other museums such as Batha and Belghazi which are worth a visit too. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside mosques and zawiyas, but it’s fine to peek and take photographs.
摩洛哥，空腹非斯摩洛哥空腹非斯該炮將火不只一次，而是三次今晚在非斯的小條子，是短視的月亮預示著 在週三開始的齋月。由於繁榮相呼應，從古老的迷宮城市跨越到'中篇小說威樂'，在我班上的學生將爆發興奮， 我知道我不能教給他們更多。所以，我應該說什麼，我問，我的穆斯林朋友即將開始他們的齋戒月？ “齋月 m'barak程序”，“祝福齋月”...這些話對每個人的嘴唇今晚。
這是一個有趣的一周如何看這個城市和人民的非斯準備什麼將是一個艱鉅的，但實現的任務。至 少，氣溫已經下降到30年代後期到一個非常涼爽的早晨和傍晚，手裡拿著一瓶礦泉水是不是那麼重要。
整個麥地那，咖啡廳桌堆積如此之高的油炸甜餅乾，samoosas和香腸形的卷包著杏仁芝麻糊滴點蜂蜜，我不知道一切都會出售。我保證它也將會有大的塑料桶上方懸掛顯示，你可以買到你購買帶回家。當你已經花了一天 希望你可以吃的東西，一個急於從這些糖果糖可能並不是你的身體需要，但肯定是它渴望。
我一直在看b'stilla糕點廚師。非斯可能是精神資本摩洛哥，但它也是家中 b'stilla，一個非常薄的糕點，使糕點餡奶酪卷或phyllo積極尋找鉛。有一個大塑料碗混合，男人 正在製造糕點。他們用一大把在地上滾篩到一個與腳跟的手，細如可以。僅僅需要秒做飯，然後脫下，再加上一堆床單，並用糕點刷油。
家庭主婦補習周圍的糕點廚師和討價還價的晶圓片材，薄膜的美味。他們從它的時尚糖果，或 使著名b'stilla餡餅含有鴿子肉和杏仁，並豎起糖粉和肉桂。它的味道非斯 - 甜又咸 - ，絕對值得一試。 B'stilla始終可用，只是，在這個時候一年我的加倍重視。
在齋月期間禁止飲酒;瓶商店關閉了數天前，並保持關閉了幾天後開齋節。如果你是一個外 國人，真的絕望了，你可以出示你的護照到零售商，或去一個高檔酒店，喝了吧。當然，酒精是被禁止的反正穆斯 林，但不知何故摩洛哥有一個蓬勃發展的葡萄酒業是很常見的人喝酒 - 除了在齋月期間。
快速突破快速被打破每天晚上在家裡和咖啡館在全國各地只要太陽下山。我同朋友在一家咖啡廳，我們聽音樂祈禱設置為來自於電視。然後，聲音已關閉，而我們聽 到喚拜從清真寺產生相反。
時間一分一秒的令人痛苦。當通話完成後，業主要求'b'smillah'和重新打開了電視，大家塔克斯英寸的開齋，或f'touh食品差別不大，從地方到另一 個地方。總有harira湯，美味的蔬菜或羊肉藥汁股票與番茄醬，鷹嘴豆，小麵團，扁豆，大米，紅辣椒，香 菜，或許一些新鮮羊肉或雞肉。它的送達日期和一些蜂蜜普照的糕點，美味煎餅式麵包，雞蛋和一些塞滿了洋蔥， 麵包，水果或蔬菜汁，煮雞蛋，鹽和孜然，後來，薄荷茶。 R10的所有周圍的每個。
因此，這裡所有的服飾，甜美的東西，harira和b'stilla糕餅，但什麼一回事呢？
顯示真主的承諾四周的齋月禁食的觀察和避開白天性交和吸煙。豁免是懷孕或哺乳婦女，小孩，那些旅行，病人和老人。
其 目的是提醒穆斯林對上帝的承諾，作為一個心靈得到淨化。我沒有聽到任何呻吟聲，人們似乎高興來參加，當然有 很大的支持，從整個社會。這也是當時穿著傳統服裝，刺繡精美的djellabas和尖趾babouches 新的和有光澤。
我的學生告訴我，我會在每天早上醒來的冠冕堂皇的大砲。有趣的是，我已經學會通過凌晨4點睡覺喚拜，毫無疑問，這將最終成為常規大砲。但我的 學生凌晨4點左右起床，有早餐 - 早餐大水果，牛奶，雞蛋，麵包，酸奶，煎餅，玉米麵包 ...然後他們 回去睡覺。這意味著，上午09點類現定於上午九時三十分。非 穆斯林不具有快速，當然，但我們也不會想到吃或喝前面我們的穆斯林同事或學生，我的許多同事也快。
後來在晚上，晚上十時至午夜十二時，晚餐供應時間。這裡的飯菜，婦女花了一天準備 - 埃及之間的肥皂看我聽說，因為沒有什麼很多其他的事情 - 從 b'stilla到古斯古斯到tagines輝煌與廣泛的新鮮蔬菜可在市場。
© www.iafrica.com
讓我們恍惚：優秀的文章，作家和歷史學家威廉達爾林普爾這似乎在旅遊節中的守護者12年11月05可在以下地址。它涵蓋蘇菲在非斯和非斯節。
http://travel.guardian.co.uk /countries/story/0，7451,1640581,00。html的
摩洛哥時髦的麥地那非斯海倫遊俠三，2005年10月26日
你說一句話'摩洛哥'，人們想到的亨弗萊鮑嘉在卡薩布蘭卡，或者旅遊填充紅色柏柏爾城市馬拉喀什;一個熱鬧的露天市場，指甲花，耍蛇 和肚皮舞。也許他們還聽說丹吉爾，其空氣稍艷俗 60年代垮掉的一代，豐富的印度大麻和輕盈的棕色摩洛哥男孩。然而，他們有在其位於非斯碗山，一面臨西部， 在炎熱的太陽烘烤，完全不同於任何其他摩洛哥城市。它的古老，它的歷史可追溯至737-700時，它是由穆 萊伊德里斯，誰就是埋在神社深的麥地那（老城區）。
這也是阿拉伯，沒有量 的法國殖民統治已經改變，儘管現代城市躺在幾公里的道路。
這也是深刻的精 神;的文化心臟的國家，上百個點左右的麥地那清真寺所以你永遠夠不著的喚禮員。
大多數遊客只花一天在非斯，也許住在昂貴的旅館都出了麥地那。但這樣做短暫的停留不會做 非斯正義，所以留一段時間，吸收大氣中投標。
麥地那非斯是艱鉅的，毫無疑 問它。我第一次來到這裡，我決定採取在指南的建議：'知道你會迷路'。這不是一個問題，因為你總是可以找到一個大門外面的世界裡，就會有出租車，或薄荷茶，咖啡廳，而你揣摩你在哪裡。
我的旅行指南上說有9000的小街道上，一個面積約 4.5公里²。這是一個迷宮，迷 宮。肯定的鵝卵石街道都很小，而且沒有車輛通道。許多城市， 你如何知道你能不能開車進？有些街道是如此狹窄，你不舒服可以通過驢拉丹的貨物，或者騾子運送氣體罐或箱可 口可樂。
一個中世紀的梅迪納另一個謎是，它的非斯仍然是一個中世紀的城市。在這些小街道上，你還是會看到男人們在工 作模式為黃銅盤擊敗，繪畫陶器，塑造銅洗臉盆，或柏木雕刻thuya或者塑造樂器，如土著烏德琴或琵琶。在 他們休息，他們坐在街頭咖啡館，讓一杯咖啡前的幾個小時，當喚禮員召喚，消失在清真寺祈禱。
有一些特定的領域不同種類的貨物;周邊地區的制革廠和購買皮革服裝，箱包，pouffes，腰帶和鞋;的銅匠領域托盤，茶壺，盤子和盆 地;裁縫，你可以有一個 djellaba作出（即傳統的連帽長袍）; babouches - 尖頭拖鞋進來的黃色或白色皮革男子，和眾多的設計，色彩和面料的婦女;華麗的黃金婚紗珠寶，木工，包括華麗的金色寶座上舉行婚禮，刻表和文物。
有優秀的手工藝攤位銷售照明製成金屬製品 或薄，染色鮮豔的山羊皮和伸過來的幀畫，陶瓷（尤其是藍色和白色），其中非斯是著名的，老的和新的地毯，古董珠寶店為特色，objets Ð'藝術，家具和織物。
當心太hendiras，傳統的 亞麻和羊毛斗篷（有時銀色亮片）的柏柏爾人的母親仍然為他們的婚齡的女兒編織，以及墊子和傳統的婚禮帶。
為自己找到一個非斯穆萊伊德里斯靖國神社附近，你會發現售賣還願產 品，如蠟燭，薰香和乳香件與木炭燃燒。還有一些商店出售黃金刺繡服裝是婚禮和割禮，它的在這裡你可以找到一 個真正的紅色流蘇非斯完成。它使一個很好的紀念品，而且價格便宜約 R14的每一個。
一旦你已經完成了購物，參加古蹟。你可以租用一個指南，如果你沒有很多時間。千萬不要錯過恢復 Bouanania Medersa（古蘭經學校）與入口的主要街道，Tala'a Kebira;的Attarine Medersa進一步下降，穆萊伊德里斯Zawiya（神社）深處麥地那清真寺旁Karaouiyne，皮革廠，Seffarine廣場和Nejjarine博物館。還有其他的博物館，如巴塔和Belghazi這是值得一遊了。非穆斯 林不得內清真寺和zawiyas，但它的優良偷看和拍照。.
Fasting in Fez
The cannon will fire not once, but three times tonight in Fez as the tiny sliver of moon is sighted to herald the start of Ramadan on Wednesday. As the boom echoes from the ancient labyrinthine city across to the 'nouvelle ville', the students in my class will erupt with excitement and I know I won't be able to teach them much more. So what should I say, I asked, to my Muslim friends about to start their month of fasting? "Ramadan m'barak"; "A blessed Ramadan"... these are the words on everyone's lips tonight.
It's been an interesting week of watching how the city and the people of Fez prepare for what will be a daunting but achievable task. At least the temperatures have dropped from the late 30s to a very cool morning and evening, and carrying a bottle of mineral water is not quite so essential.
Throughout the medina, café tables are piled so high with deep-fried sweet pretzels, samoosas and sausage-shaped rolls filled with almond-dotted sesame paste dripping with honey, that I wonder if everything will sell. I'm assured it will; there are large plastic buckets hanging above the displays which you can buy to take home your purchases. And when you've spent a day wishing you could eat something, a sugar rush from these sweetmeats is probably not what your body needs, but certainly what it craves.
I've been watching the b'stilla pastry cooks. Fez may be the spiritual capital of Morocco, but it's also the home of b'stilla, an extremely thin pastry that makes strudel or phyllo pastry look positively leaden. There's a large plastic bowl of mixture, and men are making the pastry. They take a fistful and roll it onto a griddle with the heel of the hand, as thin as can be. It takes but seconds to cook, and is then whipped off, added to the pile of sheets, and oiled with a pastry brush.
Housewives cram around the pastry cooks and haggle for sheets of the wafer-thin delicacy. They fashion sweetmeats from it, or make the famous b'stilla pies that contain pigeon meat and almonds and are dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. It's the taste of Fez — sweet yet savoury — and definitely worth trying. B'stilla is always available; it's just that at this time of year it's doubly valued.
Alcohol is forbidden during Ramadan; bottle stores close a few days beforehand, and stay closed for a few days after Eid. If you're a foreigner and really desperate, you can show your passport to a retailer, or go to an upmarket hotel to drink at the bar. Of course, alcohol is forbidden anyway for Muslims, but somehow Morocco has a thriving wine industry and it’s common for people to drink alcohol — except during Ramadan.
Breaking the fast
The fast is broken each evening in homes and cafés across the country as soon as the sun sets. I join friends in a café and we listen to prayers set to music coming from the TV. Then the sound is turned down while we hear the call to prayer emanating from the mosque opposite.
The minutes tick by agonisingly. When the call is complete, the proprietor calls 'b'smillah' and turns up the TV anew, and everyone tucks in. The iftar, or f'touh food differs little from place to place. There's always harira soup, a delicious concoction of vegetable or lamb stock with tomato paste, chick peas, small pasta, lentils, rice, red pepper, fresh coriander and perhaps some lamb or chicken. It's served with dates and some honey-drenched pastries, delicious pancake-type breads, some stuffed with egg and onion, bread, fruit or vegetable juice, hardboiled eggs with salt and cumin and afterwards, mint tea. All for around R10 each.
So here are all the trappings, the sweet things, the harira and the b'stilla pastry, but what's it all about?
Showing commitment to Allah
The four weeks of Ramadan are observed by fasting during daylight hours and eschewing sexual intercourse and smoking. Exempt are pregnant or breastfeeding women, small children, those travelling and the sick and elderly.
The aim is to remind Muslims of their commitment to God and as a spiritual purification. I don't hear any moans, and people seem pleased to take part and of course have great support from the entire community. It’s also the time to wear traditional clothes; the djellabas are beautifully embroidered and the pointy-toed babouches new and shiny.
My students assure me that I'll be woken each morning by the sounding of the cannon. Interestingly enough, I've learned to sleep through the 4am call to prayer, and no doubt this cannon will eventually become routine. But my students wake at around 4am and have breakfast — a big breakfast of fruit, milk, eggs, bread, yoghurt, pancakes, cornbread... then they go back to sleep. This means that 9am classes are now scheduled for 9.30am. Non-Muslims don't have to fast, of course, but we wouldn't think of eating or drinking in front of our Muslim colleagues or students and many of my colleagues do fast.
Later in the evening, between 10pm and midnight, supper is served. Here's the meal that the women have spent their day preparing — in between watching Egyptian soaps I'm told, as there's nothing much else to do — from b'stilla to couscous to tagines resplendent with the wide range of fresh vegetables available in the markets.
©www.iafrica.com
Let's Trance: excellent article by the writer and historian William Dalrymple that appeared in the travel section of The Guardian of 12 November 05 can be found at the address below. It covers Sufism in Fez and the Fez Festival.
http://travel.guardian.co.uk/countries/story/0,7451,1640581,00.html
MOROCCO
Funky Fez medina
Helen Ranger
Wed, 26 Oct 2005
Say the word 'Morocco', and people think of Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, or perhaps the tourist-filled red Berber city of Marrakech; an excitement of souks, henna, snake charmers and belly dancers. Maybe they’ve also heard of Tangiers, with its slightly raffish air of the 60s Beat generation, plentiful hashish and lithe brown Moroccan boys. And yet, there sits Fez in its bowl of mountains, facing west, baking in the hot sun, quite different to any other Moroccan city. It’s ancient; its history dates back to the 700s when it was founded by Moulay Idriss, who lies buried in a shrine deep in the medina (old city).
It’s also Arab; no amount of French colonisation has changed that, despite the modern city lying a few kilometres up the road.
It’s also profoundly spiritual; the cultural heart of the country, with hundreds of mosques dotted about the medina so you’re never out of reach of the muezzin.
Most tourists spend just one day in Fez, perhaps staying in an expensive hotel well out of the medina. But such a short stay won't do Fez justice, so stay a little longer and absorb the atmosphere on offer.
The medina in Fez is daunting, no doubt about it. The first time I came here, I decided to take the advice in the guidebook: 'know that you’ll get lost'. It’s not a problem, because you can always find a gate to the outside world where there’ll be a taxi, or a café for mint tea while you try to figure out where you are.
My guidebook says there are 9000 tiny streets in an area of approximately 4.5km². It’s a maze, a labyrinth. The cobbled streets certainly are tiny, and there is no vehicular access. How many cities do you know that you can’t drive into? Some streets are so narrow that you can’t comfortably pass a donkey laden with goods, or a mule carrying gas tanks or Coca Cola crates.
A medieval medina
Another enigma of Fez is that it remains a medieval city. In these tiny streets, you’ll still see men at work; beating patterns into brass trays, painting pottery, shaping copper basins, carving thuya or cedarwood or perhaps fashioning musical instruments such as the indigenous oud or lute. In their breaks, they sit in street cafés and make a glass of coffee last hours, and when the muezzin calls, they disappear into the mosques to pray.
There are specific areas for different kinds of goods; the tanneries and surrounding areas for buying leather clothing, bags, pouffes, belts and shoes; the coppersmith areas for trays, teapots, plates and basins; tailoring where you can have a djellaba made (the traditional hooded robe); babouches — slippers with pointed toes that come in yellow or white leather for men, and a multitude of designs, colours and fabrics for women; ornate yellow gold wedding jewellery, and carpentry, including gorgeous golden thrones for weddings, carved tables and artefacts.
There are excellent craft stalls selling lighting made of metalwork or thin, brightly dyed goatskin stretched over frames and painted, the ceramics (particularly blue and white) which Fez is famous for, carpets both old and new, antique shops featuring jewellery, objets d'art, furniture and fabrics.
Look out too for hendiras, the traditional cloaks of linen and wool (and sometimes silver sequins) that Berber mothers still weave for their marriageable daughters, as well as cushion covers and traditional wedding belts.
Find yourself a fez
Near the Moulay Idriss Shrine, you'll find stalls selling votive offerings such as candles, incense sticks and pieces of frankincense with charcoal to burn it. There are also shops selling gold-embroidered clothes for weddings and circumcisions, and it's here you'll find a real red fez complete with tassel. It makes a good souvenir, and cheap at around R14 each.
Once you’re done with the shopping, take in the monuments. You can hire a guide if you don’t have a lot of time. Don't miss the restored Bouanania Medersa (Qur’anic School) with the entrance on the main street, Tala'a Kebira; the Attarine Medersa further down, the Moulay Idriss Zawiya (shrine) deep down in the medina alongside the Karaouiyne Mosque, the tanneries, Seffarine Square and the Nejjarine Museum. There are other museums such as Batha and Belghazi which are worth a visit too. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside mosques and zawiyas, but it’s fine to peek and take photographs.
摩洛哥，空腹非斯摩洛哥空腹非斯該炮將火不只一次，而是三次今晚在非斯的小條子，是短視的月亮預示著 在週三開始的齋月。由於繁榮相呼應，從古老的迷宮城市跨越到'中篇小說威樂'，在我班上的學生將爆發興奮， 我知道我不能教給他們更多。所以，我應該說什麼，我問，我的穆斯林朋友即將開始他們的齋戒月？ “齋月 m'barak程序”，“祝福齋月”...這些話對每個人的嘴唇今晚。
這是一個有趣的一周如何看這個城市和人民的非斯準備什麼將是一個艱鉅的，但實現的任務。至 少，氣溫已經下降到30年代後期到一個非常涼爽的早晨和傍晚，手裡拿著一瓶礦泉水是不是那麼重要。
整個麥地那，咖啡廳桌堆積如此之高的油炸甜餅乾，samoosas和香腸形的卷包著杏仁芝麻糊滴點蜂蜜，我不知道一切都會出售。我保證它也將會有大的塑料桶上方懸掛顯示，你可以買到你購買帶回家。當你已經花了一天 希望你可以吃的東西，一個急於從這些糖果糖可能並不是你的身體需要，但肯定是它渴望。
我一直在看b'stilla糕點廚師。非斯可能是精神資本摩洛哥，但它也是家中 b'stilla，一個非常薄的糕點，使糕點餡奶酪卷或phyllo積極尋找鉛。有一個大塑料碗混合，男人 正在製造糕點。他們用一大把在地上滾篩到一個與腳跟的手，細如可以。僅僅需要秒做飯，然後脫下，再加上一堆床單，並用糕點刷油。
家庭主婦補習周圍的糕點廚師和討價還價的晶圓片材，薄膜的美味。他們從它的時尚糖果，或 使著名b'stilla餡餅含有鴿子肉和杏仁，並豎起糖粉和肉桂。它的味道非斯 - 甜又咸 - ，絕對值得一試。 B'stilla始終可用，只是，在這個時候一年我的加倍重視。
在齋月期間禁止飲酒;瓶商店關閉了數天前，並保持關閉了幾天後開齋節。如果你是一個外 國人，真的絕望了，你可以出示你的護照到零售商，或去一個高檔酒店，喝了吧。當然，酒精是被禁止的反正穆斯 林，但不知何故摩洛哥有一個蓬勃發展的葡萄酒業是很常見的人喝酒 - 除了在齋月期間。
快速突破快速被打破每天晚上在家裡和咖啡館在全國各地只要太陽下山。我同朋友在一家咖啡廳，我們聽音樂祈禱設置為來自於電視。然後，聲音已關閉，而我們聽 到喚拜從清真寺產生相反。
時間一分一秒的令人痛苦。當通話完成後，業主要求'b'smillah'和重新打開了電視，大家塔克斯英寸的開齋，或f'touh食品差別不大，從地方到另一 個地方。總有harira湯，美味的蔬菜或羊肉藥汁股票與番茄醬，鷹嘴豆，小麵團，扁豆，大米，紅辣椒，香 菜，或許一些新鮮羊肉或雞肉。它的送達日期和一些蜂蜜普照的糕點，美味煎餅式麵包，雞蛋和一些塞滿了洋蔥， 麵包，水果或蔬菜汁，煮雞蛋，鹽和孜然，後來，薄荷茶。 R10的所有周圍的每個。
因此，這裡所有的服飾，甜美的東西，harira和b'stilla糕餅，但什麼一回事呢？
顯示真主的承諾四周的齋月禁食的觀察和避開白天性交和吸煙。豁免是懷孕或哺乳婦女，小孩，那些旅行，病人和老人。
其 目的是提醒穆斯林對上帝的承諾，作為一個心靈得到淨化。我沒有聽到任何呻吟聲，人們似乎高興來參加，當然有 很大的支持，從整個社會。這也是當時穿著傳統服裝，刺繡精美的djellabas和尖趾babouches 新的和有光澤。
我的學生告訴我，我會在每天早上醒來的冠冕堂皇的大砲。有趣的是，我已經學會通過凌晨4點睡覺喚拜，毫無疑問，這將最終成為常規大砲。但我的 學生凌晨4點左右起床，有早餐 - 早餐大水果，牛奶，雞蛋，麵包，酸奶，煎餅，玉米麵包 ...然後他們 回去睡覺。這意味著，上午09點類現定於上午九時三十分。非 穆斯林不具有快速，當然，但我們也不會想到吃或喝前面我們的穆斯林同事或學生，我的許多同事也快。
後來在晚上，晚上十時至午夜十二時，晚餐供應時間。這裡的飯菜，婦女花了一天準備 - 埃及之間的肥皂看我聽說，因為沒有什麼很多其他的事情 - 從 b'stilla到古斯古斯到tagines輝煌與廣泛的新鮮蔬菜可在市場。
© www.iafrica.com
讓我們恍惚：優秀的文章，作家和歷史學家威廉達爾林普爾這似乎在旅遊節中的守護者12年11月05可在以下地址。它涵蓋蘇菲在非斯和非斯節。
http://travel.guardian.co.uk /countries/story/0，7451,1640581,00。html的
摩洛哥時髦的麥地那非斯海倫遊俠三，2005年10月26日
你說一句話'摩洛哥'，人們想到的亨弗萊鮑嘉在卡薩布蘭卡，或者旅遊填充紅色柏柏爾城市馬拉喀什;一個熱鬧的露天市場，指甲花，耍蛇 和肚皮舞。也許他們還聽說丹吉爾，其空氣稍艷俗 60年代垮掉的一代，豐富的印度大麻和輕盈的棕色摩洛哥男孩。然而，他們有在其位於非斯碗山，一面臨西部， 在炎熱的太陽烘烤，完全不同於任何其他摩洛哥城市。它的古老，它的歷史可追溯至737-700時，它是由穆 萊伊德里斯，誰就是埋在神社深的麥地那（老城區）。
這也是阿拉伯，沒有量 的法國殖民統治已經改變，儘管現代城市躺在幾公里的道路。
這也是深刻的精 神;的文化心臟的國家，上百個點左右的麥地那清真寺所以你永遠夠不著的喚禮員。
大多數遊客只花一天在非斯，也許住在昂貴的旅館都出了麥地那。但這樣做短暫的停留不會做 非斯正義，所以留一段時間，吸收大氣中投標。
麥地那非斯是艱鉅的，毫無疑 問它。我第一次來到這裡，我決定採取在指南的建議：'知道你會迷路'。這不是一個問題，因為你總是可以找到一個大門外面的世界裡，就會有出租車，或薄荷茶，咖啡廳，而你揣摩你在哪裡。
我的旅行指南上說有9000的小街道上，一個面積約 4.5公里²。這是一個迷宮，迷 宮。肯定的鵝卵石街道都很小，而且沒有車輛通道。許多城市， 你如何知道你能不能開車進？有些街道是如此狹窄，你不舒服可以通過驢拉丹的貨物，或者騾子運送氣體罐或箱可 口可樂。
一個中世紀的梅迪納另一個謎是，它的非斯仍然是一個中世紀的城市。在這些小街道上，你還是會看到男人們在工 作模式為黃銅盤擊敗，繪畫陶器，塑造銅洗臉盆，或柏木雕刻thuya或者塑造樂器，如土著烏德琴或琵琶。在 他們休息，他們坐在街頭咖啡館，讓一杯咖啡前的幾個小時，當喚禮員召喚，消失在清真寺祈禱。
有一些特定的領域不同種類的貨物;周邊地區的制革廠和購買皮革服裝，箱包，pouffes，腰帶和鞋;的銅匠領域托盤，茶壺，盤子和盆 地;裁縫，你可以有一個 djellaba作出（即傳統的連帽長袍）; babouches - 尖頭拖鞋進來的黃色或白色皮革男子，和眾多的設計，色彩和面料的婦女;華麗的黃金婚紗珠寶，木工，包括華麗的金色寶座上舉行婚禮，刻表和文物。
有優秀的手工藝攤位銷售照明製成金屬製品 或薄，染色鮮豔的山羊皮和伸過來的幀畫，陶瓷（尤其是藍色和白色），其中非斯是著名的，老的和新的地毯，古董珠寶店為特色，objets Ð'藝術，家具和織物。
當心太hendiras，傳統的 亞麻和羊毛斗篷（有時銀色亮片）的柏柏爾人的母親仍然為他們的婚齡的女兒編織，以及墊子和傳統的婚禮帶。
為自己找到一個非斯穆萊伊德里斯靖國神社附近，你會發現售賣還願產 品，如蠟燭，薰香和乳香件與木炭燃燒。還有一些商店出售黃金刺繡服裝是婚禮和割禮，它的在這裡你可以找到一 個真正的紅色流蘇非斯完成。它使一個很好的紀念品，而且價格便宜約 R14的每一個。
一旦你已經完成了購物，參加古蹟。你可以租用一個指南，如果你沒有很多時間。千萬不要錯過恢復 Bouanania Medersa（古蘭經學校）與入口的主要街道，Tala'a Kebira;的Attarine Medersa進一步下降，穆萊伊德里斯Zawiya（神社）深處麥地那清真寺旁Karaouiyne，皮革廠，Seffarine廣場和Nejjarine博物館。還有其他的博物館，如巴塔和Belghazi這是值得一遊了。非穆斯 林不得內清真寺和zawiyas，但它的優良偷看和拍照。.
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